These masks come with all kinds of amazing promises.
They’re filled with skin purifying charcoal (that’s why all the masks are black). They’ll suck out any blackheads or blocked pores. As you peel them away from the skin, you’ll lift off any dirt or blockages, too.
It doesn’t matter if it hurts, say the masks’ makers. It’s supposed to.
This in itself is worrying enough (should we really be using skincare products that hurt our faces?). But what’s worse is that the popularity of these products has kicked off a trend for DIY peel-off masks, with beauty vloggers recommending recipes including glue to recreate that strong, peel-off effect.
I get why it’s so tempting to drop a load of cash on these masks, or to try making your own.
In the same vein as pore strips, it’s incredibly satisfying to be able to peel something off your face and ‘see’ the dirt you’ve removed in the process. Plus the promise of smooth, clear skin sounds brilliant.
But here’s the thing. Not only do these blackout peel-off masks not actually do what they say on the packet, they also have the potential to damage your skin.
We spoke to Andy Millward, facialist, aesthetician, and member of the British Association of Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology to find out if these masks are worth the pain of ripping off all the tiny hairs on your face, and he warned us of just how much damage they could be doing.
‘They effectively act like glue binding to the cells on the skin’s surface as well as any vellus hair,’ Andy told metro.co.uk.
‘In fact, there are loads of DIY versions of the mask doing the rounds on YouTube which literally are made from PVA Glue and charcoal powder.
(Picture: YouTube)
‘When removed, the mask is removing cells from the outer layer of skin (the stratum corneum) and any hair along with it. You only need to watch some of the videos that have gone viral to see the excruciating pain the mask users are in.’
Andy explains that when you notice how soft and smooth your skin feels after using the masks, this is simply because you’ve effectively stripped off a surface layer of skin.
It’s a form of extremely aggressive exfoliation that irritates the skin in the process. Ouch.
The other thing the masks are pulling off your face, other than your baby hairs? All the natural oils that sit on your skin to keep it healthy.
(Picture: YouTube)
These oils, Andy explains, provide a chemical barrier that protects the skin from any harmful micro-organisms. So when you strip them away, you’re leaving your skin open to all kinds of nasty stuff.
‘It’s a little like using a chainsaw to prune a tree, when some hand-held garden shears would have done the job,’ says Andy.
‘The chainsaw might get the job done, but you’ll end up stripping the tree back a little further than intended.’
It’s also worth noting that a lot of the ‘blackheads’ you see satisfyingly removed by the mask aren’t actually blackheads. Many are sebaceous filaments, which, again, protect the skin from harmful bacteria.
(Picture: YouTube)
So, let’s say you’ve recently used a black peel-off mask and are now deeply concerned over all the havoc you may have wreaked upon your skin. What do you do now?
The good news is that you haven’t ruined your skin forevermore.
Within 30 days, the skin will replace the oils and sebaceous filaments you’ve ripped out with your mask, so the damage will heal.
But that won’t happen if you keep using the masks on an endless cycle of wanting your skin to be perfectly smooth.
‘If you’ve used the masks once you’re unlikely to cause any long-term damage so don’t panic,’ says Andy.
‘The positive thing is the skin is a very sophisticated organ. It is more than capable of replacing the sebaceous filaments that have been removed.
‘However this process can take up to 30 days, during which time the skin is obviously going to be a little more vulnerable.
‘So if you continue to use products that strip the skin of its natural oils (including harsh cleansers and exfoliants) then you’re likely to cause secondary issues.’
He recommends using a gentle cleanser while you wait for the skin to recover, and applying a hydrating, antioxidant-rich serum to help the repair process along. Make sure to use a sunscreen, too, as the damage may make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to damage.
Oh, and stop bloody using those black peel-off masks. They’re a terrible idea.
Andy's recommendations for safely getting rid of blackheads:
First, determine if you actually have blackheads, or if you’re looking at sebaceous filaments. A blackhead is a blockage you can feel within the skin, while sebaceous filaments are freeflowing, but visible due to the pore being enlarged.
‘Prevention is always better than a cure,’ says Andy. ‘So avoiding skin care and makeup that contains comedogenic ingredients is first thing.
‘Then using non-drying cleansers, gentle exfoliants and lightweight hydrating products etc to avoid blackheads from forming.
‘Some facialists or skin care professionals may offer extractions and will use steam or a softening solution prior to extraction to aid with their removal. Personally I prefer to use lipid-soluble hydroxy acids like Salicylic acid or Mandelic acid, either in the form of a mild peel or home care products that can help to dissolve and dislodge blackheads as well as reducing the appearance of sebaceous filaments.
‘Ingredients like Vitamin A (retinol or retinaldehyde), Saw Palmetto and DHEA also work by regulating sebum production so again, reducing the appearance of sebaceous filaments.
‘But remember, you can’t, and shouldn’t try to, stop them completely.
‘It’s important to have a realistic expectation and not try to obtain a completely ‘pore-less’ look, which only really exists in magazines and Instagram filters.’
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