Matnog, Philippines : Hidden beaches on exposed borders

Sorsogon is a quaint province in the Philippines that rose to fame due to the biggest fish in the world - the whale sharks locally called butanding, that found refuge in the waters of Donsol town. But what most tourists don't know is that aside from these gentle giants, Sorsogon has more to offer to tourists. Another promising town is the craggy and drowsy Matnog. The Philippines is divided into 3 main island groups - Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. Matnog is located south of the mainland of Luzon, well-known as "The Gateway to Visayas", the main island famous for its white sand beaches, thus frequented by travelers and locals crossing the sea by roro (roll on and roll off). Unknown to most passengers are the immaculate white sand beaches beyond the borders of the bustling pier.



I met a man in his 40's at the market who escorted me to the boatman's abode. We passed by humble huts, smiling faces and curious eyes. Surprisingly, the boatman does not know how much to charge me because they are not used to seeing tourists in their town. For information on how to get to these islands, you can check my blog here - Subic Beach and Tikling Island Travel Guide. The downside to traveling alone in remote islands is that you have to shoulder hefty boat rides (unless you find a fisherman where you can hitch a ride). Good thing in Matnog, the boat fare is fair enough.

Subic Beach

Sitting on the edge of the bow of the boat gave me a panoramic view of Calintaan Islands where Subic beach is located. The boat passed by some fishermen and their kids armed with obsolete arrows and goggles aiming for a fresh catch. Then suddenly, schools of fishes started jumping before us! Down below the waters, I could see corals dotting the sea floor.



And as the boat moved swiftly to the right side of the rugged cove, the clear turquoise waters of Subic beach was unveiled before me! Powdery white sands, dancing palms trees, humble shacks, farm animals, and parked fishing boats greeted us. I found comfort on a lone tree house where the cool wind gently blows on my face and the majestic view of the beach is a feast for my eyes.

Juag Fish Sanctuary

Enclosed by smaller rock formations is a wide expanse of shallow salty waters that is home to diverse species of fish, turtles, sea cucumbers, lobsters and clams. Juag Fish Sanctuary is an area reserved for the reproduction of fish populations. They are collected for studies and breeding and released in the sea once they reached their full egg spawning potential thereby reducing their probability of extinction.



I've seen warning signs by the local government prohibiting illegal fishing in the demarcated areas. I was transported to the sanctuary from its main entrance by a sliding bamboo craft. The area is quite vast with clear shallow waters and sea grass beds. Juag Fish Sanctuary is gradually becoming an eco-tourism destination where visitors are allowed to view the fishes in their natural environment. There is no entrance fee but donations are allowed.

Tikling Island

Near the coastal town of Matnog where the waters are quite unstable lies another pristine beach called Tikling Islands, the last stop for my island adventure. I find the island quite eerie because of that distinct noise of the insects and the chirping of the birds hiding on its lush tropical forest, not to mention the wild shrubs and growing vines on the sands making it look like it is unexplored. The coast is long enough for leisurely walk and the beach is a seductive blend of blue and green.



Tikling Island has no huts for rent and the only people living here are the caretakers of the island who thrives on fishing and copra production. But what really make this island remarkable is its signature powdery pinkish sands.

Undoubtedly, Matnog town is blessed with pristine beaches just waiting to be discovered and a rich natural environment that needs to be continually protected and nurtured. I hope that in the near future tourism will help its ailing people and boost the economy of the sleepy town.

Offbeat wonders of Claveria

North Luzon is full of surprises! And it's mostly when we veer off the usual destinations when we find them. Claveria, found north-west of Cagayan Valley, is one such surprise. I wasn't expecting to find a scenic boat-filled cove known as Taggat Lagoon with dramatic rock formations in this northern coastal town when I first caught sight of it under torrential rain. We were just passing through the town on the way to Pagupud, Ilocos Norte and took a cursory look but the image of the lagoon remained in my mind. It was enough to persuade me to go back and this time stayed longer to explore.

See the legendary rocks. 

Legend tells of a rich but greedy old couple and their son living in Claveria. An old man begged the rich man to spare a fish after an abundant catch but he just haughtily shrugged him off. An old lady knocked on their door and asked for food but the rich lady shunned her. When they were about to have dinner, they found their precious child missing. Before the sun rose, they found their son turned into stone. They blamed each other for their greediness and soon the waves lashed at their feet.  The couple also turned into stone.

The two towering limestone formations off the coast of Taggat Lagoon and clearly seen from Claveria beach are said to be this two greedy couples, Apo Lakay-lakay (Old Man) and Apo Baket-baket (Old Woman). These rock formations have become Claveria's landmarks and locals still believe that they should offer some of their catch to the rocks whenever they pass by. It could also be one of the reasons why a lot of Cagayanos here are so hospitable and generous. The rock formation of their son Ubing-ubing (Child) can be found on Centinela Beach. 

Enjoy the freshest catch at the fishing village. 

Venture early at Taggat Lagoon and observe how the locals earn their livelihood by going out to sea. When the fishermen arrive, the locals work hand-in-hand sorting out the catch. You can buy directly from the fishermen and have the fresh bounty cooked there for lunch or dinner.
 

Splash in the waters of Taggat Lagoon. 

While the grownups work, the children run and hop along the rocks and splash along the shore. The clear, emerald-hued water of Taggat Lagoon is so inviting, you may get the urge to copy the kids who jump from the high rocks to enjoy it. Aside from being jump-off points for overeager swimmers, the rocks also act as a natural breakwater which explains why the water in the lagoon is almost always placid.

Waterfalls-hopping.  

Venture inland and visit a few waterfalls nearby. Portabaga Falls is the furthest, some 30 minutes away near the border of the next town of Sta Praxedes. Already a developed area with picnic huts and man-made pool, it is still popular among the locals. Macatel Falls is relatively quieter, boasting of twin falls and native picnic huts in more natural surroundings. Mabnang Falls requires a short trek to reach but is worth seeing with its beautiful cascades, a scenic way of witnessing how nature slowly creep in and reclaim its place among the rubbles of halted development.
 

Climb Bantay Kalbo and see the sunset at Centinela Beach. 

Within sighting distance of Taggat Lagoon lies Centinela Beach, a rugged cove with a crushed-coral beach and limestone rocks sculpted by the waves. The area where the river meets the sea is a popular swimming spot for its friendly waves. Nearby is a hill known as Bantay-Kalbo which can be easily climbed for a panoramic view of the whole cove - a perfect spot to watch the sunset.