North Luzon is full of
surprises! And it's mostly when we veer off the usual destinations when we find
them.
Claveria, found north-west of
Cagayan Valley, is one such surprise. I wasn't expecting to find a scenic
boat-filled cove known as
Taggat Lagoon
with dramatic rock formations in this northern coastal town when I first caught
sight of it under torrential rain. We
were just passing through the town on the way to Pagupud, Ilocos Norte and took
a cursory look but the image of the lagoon remained in my mind. It was enough
to persuade me to go back and this time stayed longer to explore.
See the legendary rocks.
Legend tells of a rich but greedy
old couple and their son living in Claveria. An old man begged the rich man to spare
a fish after an abundant catch but he just haughtily shrugged him off. An old
lady knocked on their door and asked for food but the rich lady shunned her. When they were about to have dinner, they found
their precious child missing. Before the sun rose, they found their son turned
into stone. They blamed each other for their greediness and soon the waves lashed
at their feet. The couple also turned
into stone.
The two towering limestone formations off the
coast of Taggat Lagoon and clearly seen from Claveria beach are said to be this
two greedy couples,
Apo Lakay-lakay (Old
Man) and
Apo Baket-baket (Old Woman).
These rock formations have become Claveria's landmarks and locals still believe
that they should offer some of their catch to the rocks whenever they pass by.
It could also be one of the reasons why a lot of Cagayanos here are so
hospitable and generous. The rock formation of their son
Ubing-ubing (Child) can be found on Centinela Beach
.
Enjoy the freshest catch at the fishing village.
Venture early at Taggat
Lagoon and observe how the locals earn their livelihood by going out to sea. When the fishermen arrive, the locals work
hand-in-hand sorting out the catch. You can buy directly from the fishermen and
have the fresh bounty cooked there for lunch or dinner.
Splash in the waters of Taggat Lagoon.
While the grownups work,
the children run and hop along the rocks and splash along the shore. The clear,
emerald-hued water of Taggat Lagoon is so inviting, you may get the urge to
copy the kids who jump from the high rocks to enjoy it. Aside from being
jump-off points for overeager swimmers, the rocks also act as a natural
breakwater which explains why the water in the lagoon is almost always placid.
Waterfalls-hopping.
Venture inland and visit a few
waterfalls nearby. Portabaga Falls
is the furthest, some 30 minutes away near the border of the next town of Sta
Praxedes. Already a developed area with picnic huts and man-made pool, it is still
popular among the locals. Macatel Falls
is relatively quieter, boasting of twin falls and native picnic huts in more
natural surroundings. Mabnang Falls
requires a short trek to reach but is worth seeing with its beautiful cascades,
a scenic way of witnessing how nature slowly creep in and reclaim its place
among the rubbles of halted development.
Climb Bantay Kalbo and see the sunset at Centinela Beach.
Within sighting distance
of Taggat Lagoon lies Centinela Beach, a rugged cove with a crushed-coral beach
and limestone rocks sculpted by the waves. The area where the river meets the
sea is a popular swimming spot for its friendly waves. Nearby is a hill known
as Bantay-Kalbo which can be easily climbed for a panoramic view of the whole
cove - a perfect spot to watch the sunset.